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Walking the Rim

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thefynbosguy in South Africa,, African Adventures,, Inspirational Stories,, Responsible Tourism,,
October 21st, 2010 at 10:16am
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It's called the Rim of Africa: a 650km, 48-day hike along the Cape Fold Mountains, the gnarled chain of peaks and turrets that sweeps scimitar-like across the south-western Cape, providing a discernable edge to the continent as it slips quietly into the ocean.

The first stage is a 12-day boot-breaker, beginning in the far north Cederberg and ending 120km away in the appropriately named Koue (cold) Bokkeveld. I have just returned from this section - foot-sore, grazed, sun-blasted - and yet feel like I've never felt before: rejuvenated, uplifted, energised. It's a walk that, rather like basic training in the military, breaks you down and then builds you up.

As you might expect from the mountains, the scenery was phenomenal - and so was the weather. Beginning by swimming in glassy mountain streams to escape the pizza-oven heat and ending by making snowballs from the ice on our tents, we also had to deal with gusts of wind that blew me off my feet and rain that swept into camp horizontally.

And we weren't alone: leopard spoor accompanied our own footprints and baboons sat in their citadels and gazed curiously at us as we walked past. A blink of a shadow across a rock face revealed a lazily patrolling black eagle, a whistled alarm call betrayed jinking antelope, impossibly fast up angled cliffs.

The deeper into the range we went, the more bizarre Nature revealed herself to be.

Extraordinary plants, some so unique that they occur only on a single, isolated plateau, jostled in their attempt to be noticed. Gaudy orchids, irises and hyacinths rose, phoenix-like, out of bare, burnt sand; proteas erupted in fiery colours and stop-in-your-tracks shapes; pink heathers filled the air with the scent of honey, buchus added liquorice and china flowers lemon.

On we went, stronger and fitter each day, gulping down the liquid fresh air. I shed hurts and frustrations of the preceding months; all I could think of was this magical environment.

And it didn't stop: the views were unrelenting - we could see Table Mountain 200km away, the Atlantic Ocean, rock crosses and arches, and layer after layer of gun-metal grey mountains unfolding towards the ever-elusive horizon.

But we caught up with the horizon of course and touched down in agricultural land, surrounded by wide-eyed farm workers, at once appalled and fascinated by what we had done.

If you are also appalled, well then perhaps the Rim of Africa is not for you; if you're fascinated then I suggest you get into these mountains and prepare yourself for something quite unlike you've ever experienced before.

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Recent Comments

  • 1: 

    Pant, pant, pant…I am not sure if this hike is more mentally or physically challenging, but nonetheless sounds like a path (excuse the pun) that everyone should walkat some point in their life. From vast climate conditions, vegetation and scenary it seems this little secret offers a peace of heaven!! WELL DONE for making it through the first 12 days, and being able to share your gratifyingexperience with us!!

    Professional
    Tamarawithers
    October 21st, 2010 at 10:30am

  • 2: 

    Wow, I can’t wait to do the hike myself. Where do I sign up?

    Professional Expert
    Derek Boshard
    October 25th, 2010 at 8:51pm

  • 3: 

    Hi Derek - have a look here: http://www.rimofafrica.co.za/Rim_of_Africa_Trail/Welcome.html
    Write to Ivan or Galeo and they can tell you all you need to know.

    Expert on the Ground
    thefynbosguy
    October 28th, 2010 at 7:53am

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